Le Cochon Bourgeois

From my very rusty knowledge of French I'd guess that "Le Cochon Bourgeois" means something like "The posh pig" or "The swanky swine". Whatever, the name is certainly apt because in the German adjectives which spring to mind for describing this restauarant are "Edel" and "Gehoben". It's an upmarket joint.

As you might expect from this class of restaurant, especially a French one, the food is excellent. As is the service. And I'm reliably informed that the wine is good too, but I'm no conneseur (I can't even spell it) so I can't comment. As for the atmosphere, well, it's great if you happen to be sat facing into the restaurant with a view of the bar and the other tables. Unfortunately the time I was there I had nothing to look at but a blank cream coloured wall. Oh, and my dining companion. If I owned the place I'd put up a big mirror on that wall. It'd give the folks in the cheap seats something to look at during a conversational hiatus.

There's two areas to the restaurant: a front with a view out over the street, and a back. I didn't really look in the back. As for the prices, well, a starter will rob you of 8.50 to 11 Euros. A middle course costs 11 or 12. And the main courses are between 15 and 19.50. The clientelle here are mostly retired business men, and society ladies with too much facial surgery. One old dame next to me had her skin pulled so tight that every time she crossed her legs her mouth opened. It wasn't pretty.

Anyway, to sum up: if you've already made your dot com millions then you should definately visit this "lokal" and make your own judgement. If you're still an impoverished student or under-employed graduate you should wait another decade or two before eating here.

Fichtestr. 24, Kreuzberg, Berlin.
Tel. 030 6930101

Cream

Schlesische str. 6, just down from the U-bahn station. One of a very few (that I know of) coffee shops in Berlin that also roasts their own beans. (Barcomi's is the other.) The results are terriffic, and certainly far better coffee than anything else for many blocks. The pastries are also a cut above the usual, and include good "American-style" brownies. The interior is also quite swank for the neighborhood, and looks more like something you'd expect to see (but don't) around the Hackescher Markt.

Eisenwaren

Schlesischestrasse 18. The best eating option on an otherwise average street. Slightly expensive, but huge portions of eintopf, quiche, spatzle, and the odd wurst dish. If you can’t quite stomach the regular spaetzle, ask for the Spaezle Spezial, a smaller portion with a green salad.

Il Casoulare

Kreuzberg on the Maybachufer on the Landwehrkanal, about a ten minute walk from Kotbusser Tor U-bahn (U1, U15, and U8).

Ah yes, the problem of finding good pizza in Berlin. If you're from the US, you'll be stunned at how hard it is to find really good pizza here. (It's easy to find average pizza of course). Il Casoulare is one of the few exceptions, where actual Italians actually make pizza well (though the calzone I had once here was terrible). Believe me, this is rare. Prices are normal: between 6 and 12 Euros (in 2002). The restaurant can get crowded, loud, and hot, so sit outside on the terrace next to the canal if you can, where it might just be crowded. The place cultivates a sort of radical left-wing feel, with slogans painted on the walls and written on the menu. That might be the reason that it's a favorite of touring punk bands playing nearby at the SO36 club. If no musicians are there, be sure to read the graffitti they leave behind on the walls inside.

Freischwimmer

Way down the end of Schlesische strasse on the way to Treptow is this little floating café on a boat. It’s weird how popular this place is, given the bad expensive food and bad service. Still, it’s a nice place to sit on the dock in the evening if you’re in the area.

Schlesische Str.

Actually this street is kind of boring, but I’m including it because I worked here for about 6 months. Eisenwaren’s got good German food, the Hotel Fabrik looks like a cool place, and most of your Turkish food needs can be met here. In Summer 2002, there was a little gallery called Framework at the south-east end that had lovely catered lunch every day for 4 Euros. Continue down Schlesischestrasse to get to Freischwimmer and the massive Sunday junk market in the warehouses next to the Arena club. Eventually, you’ll come to Treptower Park. (which is better reached by U-bahn anyway).

Sommerbad Kreuzberg

Right next to the Prinzenstrasse U-bahn. This is actually one of the Berlin pools, but it’s so nice it deserves special mention. It takes up a full city block with three large pools and two kid’s splash pools, enourmous grassy areas for laying around, FKK (naked) section behind the wooden fence at the far end, and of course a couple of snack bars. The whole thing is landscaped nicely as well so that the walkways and fields are set off from the noisy pool area, and the snack bar almost feels like a little terrace café. Open only in the summer (of course).